Forest Gump Moment and Staniel Cay

The Sea Hawk at anchor

"I'm pretty tired, I think I'll go home now".  That is what Forest Gump had to say when he stopped running.  We left Duluth, MN on June 12, 2017 and almost 4000 miles ago, we have been moving south ever since.  Well, we zipped through Highborne and Norman Cay after leaving Rose Island and kept going south.  We got to Staniel Cay and set the anchor, sat down in the cock pit, looked at other and said almost simultaneously, "Let's just stay here for a couple of months and stop going south".  So here we have been for the the last month, exploring the cays around Staniel.

There is a small grocery store at Highborne Cay

The Highborne Cay mascot

Staniel Cay is a fun place with Thunderball Grotto and Pig Beach (Big Major Cay).  There is a small settlement with two stores, Berke's and Pearl, AKA the blue and pink stores.  There is also the yellow house where you can get great bakery items.  Bruce was able to pick up a new bathing suit at Lyndsey's Boutique.  We have our laundry washed at Ruth's which is also a liquor store.  The Bahamian Kalik beer is great!  There is a BTC office and an airport.  What more does one need?

 Outside Staniel Cay Marina

Swim with the nurse sharks at your own risk!

The sign says it all

Cocktails at Staniel Cay Marina

Sundowners on the Paradise

Lazing the afternoon away in front of Staniel Cay Marina

Staniel Cay is our home away from home for now.

More on our explorations, coming soon................

Rose Island, Snorkeling and Beach Campfires

We left Chub Cay at 0440 to head for Rose Island.  I hate not having my time to wake up slowly and gently with a great cup of coffee in the morning.  But when we make relatively long passages we like to make sure we will be there before sunset, this allows for any problems along the way.  So I suck it up and put on my big girl pants even though I want to stamp my feet and say, ‘No Go’.  It was certainly worth it as we sailed slowly into the lee side of Rose Island just a few miles northeast of Nassau.  There were several shallow reefs with a narrow passage into the anchorage which took visual piloting reporting (AKA VPR) but we entered without incident and anchored in about 7 feet of water.  

Nassau in the distance from our anchorage.  That is Atlantis on the far right.

 View of the beach from our cockpit

The reefs surrounding our anchorage offered great opportunities for snorkeling of which we took advantage.  The beauty of the reefs was breathtaking and I realized that the pictures and videos I had seen had in no way enhanced or exaggerated the beauty, colors and variety of fish that I was seeing.  There were purplish, bluish sea fans, brain coral, colorful tubelike sponges and many I could not name.  I saw Foureye Butterflyfish (with the big eye on their body), blue tangs (Dory fish), Banded Butterflyfish, and I believe I saw some snapper.  

Although these pictures are taken from Google Images it was exactly what I saw.

Foureyed Butterfyl Fish

Blue tang

Sea Fan

Those were just the fish I could name.  The marine life I saw was simply overwhelmingly awesome. 

We even had sundowners over a campfire on the beach one night.

As Louis Armstrong once said "It's a Wonderful World"

Not All Sun and Fun

Cruising on a boat (sailboat in our case) is not all sun and fun; it’s a bit of work.

We have a 30 foot sailboat, though completely restored it still involves regular routine maintenance to keep it from developing major issues. 

This involves making water every third or fourth day, doing laundry, washing and cleaning the outside of boat to keep salt and rust at bay, washing our bodies, and also servicing consumables (filters changes every so often).  Other parts are performing boat system maintenance at rated hours.  For example changing engine oil and filter, fuel filter, replacing zinc anodes on heat exchanger and prop shaft, changing out a water pump impeller, complete pump due to leaking seals, adjusting belts, inspecting and adjusting stuffing box packing, and so on. We also service the seacocks regularly (greasing and working back and forth) to keep them operating correctly. Another maintenance item is inspecting our fire system monthly so they are ready for use in the event we have a fire on board.  Anchoring system is also very important to maintain; servicing the windlass (cleaning and greasing) and inspecting chain so we can weigh anchor each and every time without difficulty. 

Sail rigging is another area we inspect and service.  Such as checking for cracks, adjusting standing rigging, inspecting running rigging and roller furler.  There are several other systems we inspect which would make this a longer list for another time.

So, it isn’t all sun and fun, but it does break up the monotony of daily living on a sailboat when we aren’t having sun and fun.

I added this section to Chris’ blog because I think folks believe it is all sun and fun sailing in paradise on a sailboat based on YouTube videos that some folks watch on cruising in exotic places.  I believe if folks can truly see what cruising really is they can make an informed decision on whether they would like this lifestyle.  Well, that’s it for now from Chris’ other half.  Fair winds and following seas to all.

Chris’s Voice

In addition to being Bruce’s gopher when he is in the midst of a big job, I clean the inside of the boat daily.  Our boat is too small to allow it to become disorganized by clutter.  I pick up and return everything back to its allocated spot, sweep, make the v-berth bed, cook and wash the dishes.  Washing the dishes is usually not a big job and if it is, Bruce will help with that chore.  Usually I am washing a dish or two throughout the day, because there is no room for accumulation of unwashed dishes.  Most days I will also have one extra job that is usually done on a weekly basis that includes cleaning the brass, dusting, (it is amazing how much dust you can accumulate on a boat), adding tung oil to the bright work (done less frequently), etc.  I also have been baking our bread since reaching the Bahamas it is not as easy to find.  The one bright side of cleaning the cabin is it does not take long. 

So that is the summary of the other things we do on the boat when we aren’t having sundowners (isn’t it 5:00 somewhere?), snorkeling, checking out the local bar, having sundowners, trying to fish, or whatever takes our fancy.

Living in Paradise

Great Bahama Bank to Chub Cay

We left Bimini February 4 at 0640 arriving at Mackie Shoal at 1600 where we anchored for the night along with Ugowego, Last Chance, Kristteny, and Paradise Hunter.  In 12 feet of crystal clear water we could see clear to the bottom.  The Great Bahama Bank is a wide shallow body of water that lies mostly between the westernmost islands of the Bahamas.  The sea here is less than twenty feet deep in places and coral heads are scattered throughout.  The Bank stretches out for miles and there was no land in sight when we dropped the anchor for the night. 

We continued the next morning leaving before sunrise at 0515 to Chub Cay.  It just doesn’t seem right to get up and leave while it is still dark and I was just a little bit grumpy.  That disappeared quickly when we sailed into the beautiful bay with the crystalline waters striated into beautiful hues of blue. 

Sea Hawk is second boat from the left.

Chub Cay is a private island with a Marina and a beautiful resort.  In the past they have discouraged boats anchored near the Cay from coming in.  They have changed this policy and were very welcoming to us. Dan Scott beckoned us in to take us for a tour of the resort in his gulf cart.  He is great PR man and explained that with a change in management came a change in attitude.  Instead of chasing away people not staying at the Marina they welcome them to the restaurant and even let us use the pool.  We had an enjoyable lunch in good company at their restaurant and will definitely stop here again next year.

Pictures from our Tour

Chub Cay Resort

 Dan Scott

 Water storage for the island.

Resort Villas

With a few lessons from the experienced fisherman in our group, Jerry from Ugowego, we caught our first lobster.  Even though it was only one, it made a great omelet for the two of us. 

Having sundowners on the Paradise Hunter brought a great close to the day watching the colorful sunset. 

Does it get any better than this?

On Island time...........................

We are in the Bahamas!

We are in the Bahamas!

While anchored in Angelfish Creek cut by Key Largo on a Thursday night the conversation between Bruce and myself kind of went like this “Hey, look there are 2 sailboats headed out.  You think they are headed for Bimini?  Maybe we should go tonight?  Yep, let’s go!”
And with that we quickly finished dinner and got the boat ready to leave.  We left the cut about 4:00 in the afternoon.  Now this may sound like it was a spur of the moment decision.  But it definitely was not.  This was after a month of studying the weather and looking for that elusive weather window.  We had decided to leave on Sunday which looked like a better window.  But the seas had already had a day of easterly winds and were settling down.  We decided on the night sail to stretch our window a little.  With a full moon it was beautiful but a little rough.  The cruise ships were easy to see, they were lit up like Christmas trees and visible for miles.

We arrived in Bimini a little before dawn and not wanting to enter while dark waited til the sun rose.  It was a magical moment, crystal clear, turquoise waters made even more special by the long wait with miserably strong northerly winds.  We have heard over and over again, do not cross with any northerly component to the wind.  The Gulf Stream moves from south to north and with a north wind opposed to the current can kick up some nasty seas. 

We knew some friends of ours had made the crossing about a week ahead of us from Key Largo but had been out of contact with them since they made the crossing.  As we drew nearer to Big Game Club we saw the Paradise Hunter and our friend Roger wildly waving to get our attention.  He was a welcome surprise and a big help during that first sleep deprived day.  We had very little sleep during the crossing.  We usually take 3 hour watches but I was seasick the first 6 hours and wasn’t able to break Bruce until after midnight.  He was a real trooper taking my watches until I felt better.  I very seldom get seasick but it will happen when it is rough on occasion. 

We anchored just north of the marina and Roger came over to help us with a stern anchor.  We were in a tight anchorage with one other boat and a strong current.  We were able to get everything set and the anchors held well the entire time we were there. 

We were also met and welcomed by our neighbor boat, an adorable 8 year old boy with a big cheeky smile and lots of attitude handling his dinghy like a real pro (mom was with him). 

Roger walked Bruce over to Customs and they cleared us.  We are now displaying the Bahamian flag and not the yellow quarantine flag.  When coming into the Bahamas you must display a yellow quarantine flag until you are cleared by Customs and only the Captain is allowed off the boat until then. 

After looking at our options for staying connected in the Bahamas we chose to get an International Bahamian cell number as my phone is unlocked and we were able to get a new sim card.  Roger (bless his heart) walked Bruce to the BTC building and took care of that business.  We plan to come back to the Bahamas next winter and if we keep a balance with a new deposit every three months after suspending our account we can have the same number when we return. 

Next point of business?  Catching up with old friends and meeting new friends with Pina Coladas at a beach restaurant of course!  We finished up that wonderful day with a lobster dinner on the Paradise Hunter with friends looking for bull sharks.  Ahh, what a life!

Sundowners on the Paradise Hunter

 Roger (Paradise Hunter) John (Last Chance)

 Keith (Kristteny) Terry (Paradise Hunter)

Jerry, Rhonda and son Tim (Ugowego)

About Alicetown

No bread at the bakery, got to get there early!

Veterans Park

Cars drive on the opposite side of the road.  Bruce has pulled me off the road more than once because I think they are on the other side!

We are not waiting for a weather window……. WELCOME TO THE BAHAMAS

Road Trip to Key West

Last time we saw Key West was in 1981 when we lived on Stock Island.  We had been forewarned there were a lot of changes, and there were!  It certainly lost it's old Florida feeling but nice to see it again.  We drove down Duval Street and saw some of our old stomping grounds.  

The famous Sloppy Joe's Bar

We had some good times in Sloppy Joes.

The 6-toed cats are still in residence at the Ernest Hemingway House.

Mallory Square has really changed!  Unfortunately, we missed being there for the sunset.

Bruce used to work in Truman Annex.  

During the time we lived in Key West, the Mariel Boatlift, which was a mass immigration of Cubans to the US, occurred.  Many of the boats were confiscated and Truman Annex was overwhelmed with confiscated boats placed on the hard and at their docks.  In all 125,000 Cubans fled to American shores in 1,700 boats between 15 April and 30 October overwhelming the US Coast Guard.  If I remember right these boats were later auctioned.  

Yes, we were there when Key West seceded from the US.  Bruce was stopped on his way to work and asked what his business was.  When he responded he was on his way to work, they allowed him to travel on his way.  Lol  

We proudly fly the Conch Republic flag on the Sea Hawk.  

Still waiting for a weather window to the Bahamas

Boat Life in Boot Key Harbor, Marathon

We made it to Marathon in time to catch a few gloriously warm days and then sure enough it cooled right down again.  Although I am sure if we wait long enough it will warm up again:-)  I hope that cool weather isn't following us (?).
It feels great to be back in the Keys.  We lived in Key West in the early 80's and things have really changed around here.

Sunset in Boot Key Harbor

The first thing we did is the typical mundane things, like taking a shower and washing clothes so people won't avoid us.  After we were clean smelling again we did some socializing and catching up with people we had met earlier in our journey.  We also checked out some of the local restaurants within walking distance and had an excellent breakfast at the Stuffed Pig and a great dinner watching barracuda feed just a few feet from our dining table at Key Fisheries.  It was celebrity night at Key Fisheries and everybody had to choose a celebrity name to claim their dinner.  Bruce chose Hemingway and he certainly looked the part sporting his new beard.

We met Carolyn and her husband Dave of Boat Galley fame.  She was great and they shared with us their boat prep for Hurricane Irma.  They have been here quite a few months, leaving for a short time during Hurricane Irma.  Their boat did survive Irma at a mooring ball in Boot Key Harbor.  You can read her account of what they did to prepare for the hurricane on her blog at:

👉https://theboatgalley.com/hurricane-prep-lines/

Carolyn has some great tips for living a cruising lifestyle.

We are on week 2 and after doing a lot of boat chores the first week including commissioning our water maker.  Yes! We can now make power with our solar panels and make our own water.  We are using a Cruise RO Watermaker and so far it is working great.  We had a few bugs to work through but Rich of Cruise RO provided great support. 

After working hard and feeling pretty confident that everything is working the way it should we hiked down to Crane Point Museum and Nature Center for a day of sightseeing.  This is a 63 acre property that includes the oldest house in Monroe County outside of Key West.  The Adderly House was built in 1903 by George and Olivia Adderly.  In 1953 Francis and Mary Crane bought this piece of property and built the Crane House.  They were so enchanted with the rich variety of  local plant life and wildlife that they preserved the property until 1976 when the Florida Keys Land and Sea Trust purchased the land and saved the area from being developed into private homes and shopping malls.  It is a little oasis in a sea of shopping and residential areas.  

Mahogany Tree

Separate kitchen next to the Adderly House

Adderly House

Adderly House

This iguana was checking us out

Bruce 

Waiting for a weather window to the Bahamas

New Years in Bradenton

It was pretty windy and gusty over New Years so we stopped in Bradenton for a few days and met  up with some good friends.  We first met Chuck and Diane (Bear) on the Illinois River and have been hopscotching each other ever since.

We spent a little time exploring and shopping in town and ventured into learning how the city buses work.  It was pretty convenient and a lot cheaper than renting a car.
We left on Thursday and headed towards Sarasota.  We anchored out near Marina Jack in front of this iconic statue.

The pelicans were hungry and we had a few laughs watching them.  They are so graceful in flight but when they swoop down with a surgeons precision to snag a fish their feathers are all akimbo and feet are splayed as they flop into the water with a mighty splash.
The next day we sailed towards Venice and anchored in a tight little bay called Cape Haze along with several other boats.  We had the chance to put hoist the new sails and they are great.  We definitely get more speed and are able to speed up and slow down much better than with the old sails.
The weather has been cold so we have been moving fast to find warmer temps.  We next anchored in the lee side of Chino Island and weathered out the winds on Sunday.

Sunset at Chino Island

Papa and Delilah taking a quick nap over Christmas

It is beginning to warm up as we head for Marathon Key.

 On to the Keys~~~~~→