Dismal Swamp

We came close to missing this gem.  We had planned on taking the Virginia Cut but at the last minute decided to take the Dismal Swamp after discussing the routes with Linda and Mehlon on Just Ducky.  They had already traversed the canal and strongly recommended we experience the waterway.  This is a beautiful 22 mile stretch of canal with a controlling depth of 6 feet.  It is narrow and dripping with overhanging trees.  Watch your mast, ours went through the branches and came away with a few hanging at the top after trying to dodge some flotsam in the middle of the channel.  No damage was done but we certainly started paying more attention to what was above as well as below.    

That is Just Ducky ahead of us 

The Dismal Swamp Canal was hand dug by hired enslaved labor and opened to navigation in 1805.  This canal allowed trade between the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia and the Albemarle Sound in North Carolina.  The brownish colored water in the canal is preserved by tannic acids from the bark of the juniper, gum, and cypress trees which prohibits the growth of bacteria.  Before refrigeration, water from the swamp was considered a highly prized commodity on sailing ships, put in kegs it would stay fresh for a long time.

Waiting out the weather we were there for 3 days at the free dock which is about 4 miles north of the South Mills Lock.  The lock opens at 0830, 1100, 1330, and 1530.  You will come to a pontoon bridge operated by the State Park just before the Welcome Center docks.  The bridge tender usually watches for boat traffic and will be opening the bridge as you are transiting the lock, if not call on VHF Channel 13.  Just Ducky and our boat went through relatively late at 1:00 which meant we were the last two boats at the free dock.  There is only room for 3-4 boats across the face dock so boaters will raft.  We had seven boats rafted that first day and six the next.  Comments on Active Captain report up to 17 boats rafted at the dock.  Be prepared😊

We are the pickle in the middle 🥒

From the left

Chris, Wes, Linda, Mehlon and Diane

The welcome center is also a rest stop for road traffic and it was a strange feeling as our two worlds converged with just the waterway and a highway amongst all this beauty. 

At the final lock you will meet Robert, a memorable character, who regaled us with conch playing, history, and stories of people passing through.  Apparently Robert was asked not to compete in the conch playing contest in the Keys because he always won, gotta give the other guy a chance.  I could believe his story, he is the first conch player I have heard who could really use this shell as an instrument.  He could change the sound, play a series of notes and vibrato.  It was amazing listening to him.  

On to the Chesapeake Bay............................